04
Pasta in a pastel-coloured land
A dreamy trip to the rainbow corners of the Amalfi Coast where slow beach existence meets electric night life
Amalfi Coast
Walking around the pastel-coloured streets of the Amalfi Coast felt like an ever-lasting summer. Tourists and locals blend together by spending the long afternoons under the soft embrace of the late summer sunshine, side by side. Amalfi is one of those places that deserves the recognition it gets - beautiful architecture, incredible food, gorgeous scenery, and sunsets that you want to experience over and over again. Much like many other popular Italian destinations, the coast is a postcard-worthy experience. It has the charm of fairytale Venice, the energy of magnificent Verona and the promise of possibilities that Rome acquires so effortlessly.
I hoped that the Amalfi Coast would feel like an experience out of an old Hollywood movie and I was not disappointed. As soon as we found ourselves surrounded by the colourful facades of the houses carefully scattered over the hills of Amalfi, I knew it was a moment I'd keep coming back to forever. Our boat, by which we arrived early in the afternoon, reached the shore and we finally stepped foot in the place I had been fascinated by for years.
To say that I remember the exact time I first heard of Amalfi or saw a postcards that immortalised the beauty of the place, would be far from the truth. It was quite the opposite - this corner of the boot-shaped country feels so familiar, like it was pulled out from a dream. In a way, it feels like I'd grown up knowing of the honey and peach shade of the houses on the hills and the pebbly beaches that greet the expats arriving by boats. Maybe it was all the films I have watched where the protagonists shares a glass of chilled white wine on the terrace of their summer house, or maybe it was the tranquility of a guitar being played on the streets so that late-night adventurers can enjoy the pleasure of live music on their way to bars and crowded restaurants. Whatever constructed the image in my mind, the coast was exactly what I expected it to be and more. Vibrant, alive and magical. The days were long and the nights had a soft glow of a star-full sky - a typical nuance for a European summer.
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The first town we ended up in was Amalfi with its gorgeous views of the bluest sea I've ever had the privilege to see. Our accomodation was on the way to the top of one of the hills so we took a bus there to the area of Pogerola. The locals sat on benches at the plaza and talked for hours. Elderly ladies who spoke enough English to handle the small fruit and vegetables shops greeted every customer with a smile and joked half in Italian, half in English. Life felt peaceful, slow. We walked a lot. We hiked down to Amalfi every day to explore the place on foot and to be surrounded by nature as much as possible.
In true Italian fashion, we had to schedule a day at the beach. There, underneath the colourful umbrellas, travellers from all corners of Europe and beyond had come to spend part of the season on the coast. A Japanese man was teaching his boy to dive from the rocks right into the blue sea. A Chinese family of four arrived at the beach by midday to refresh after a hot day in the sun. Two French couples were sharing a joke. A group of old friends were making plans in Italian about where to spend their evening. It seemed like we were in the right place to blend in and experience this slice of paradise. Dinner plans were made - we all agreed that when in Italy, we had to have pizza! We booked a table at a quiet restaurant at the top of the hill, where the waiter tended to all guests with a smile and a menu that featured a great selection of local wines.
Since Amalfi was already so generous to us, we had to venture out and explore more of the coast. Our second day started slowly. We enjoyed a morning black coffee made in a moka pot and some fresh fruit from the corner shop downstairs. Then we started getting ready to board a boat and head to Positano. With the salty breeze in my hair, the glittering summer sun reflecting in my sunglasses and the view of the rainbow hills in sight, I didn't think life could get any better than that. Positano, although also busy, felt a bit easier to navigate than Amalfi. There were numerous narrow streets zigzagging around the hill - countless shops, souvenir stands and bars were tucked away in the most unassuming ways. We had to stop for some much needed refreshments and ended up hiding from the crowds in a terrace bar overlooking the water. Its facade (a tiny glass display inviting visitors into what appeared to be a cozy restaurant) was not like it seemed. Once inside, we realised the space was huge and many others had wandered in just as we did, despite our lack of expectations, we were all pleasantly surprised. The Aperol Spritz was perfectly chilled and the shade was exactly what we needed before heading back out to walk the cobbled streets with no directions. It was late afternoon, just before the sun had started to set down, when we headed back. The dock was aligned with the beach and as we departed, the view of swimmers, yachts and pastel-coloured buildings all merged together like a painting drawn by an impressionist. We ended the day by making homemade pasta with garlic, chili and oil and enjoyed the evening on our terrace overlooking the town.
On our fourth day, which happened to be the middle of August, we took a different route with the hope of finding a more secluded spot. My boyfriend, Mike, had researched beforehand so he took the lead - me and my sister Allie were right behind taking in the scenery. Once again we opted out for walking. We took a route aligned with the main road before taking a turn towards the sea. There the path led us down a staircase which descended alongside quiet local houses and continued past a church where a big group of people were getting ready to celebrate the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary, the Queen of Positano. The little hike was worth our effort when we finally got to the beach. What seemed like a private place was actually open to all. Although not as easily accessible as the beaches on the front lines of Amalfi, the tucked-away coasts were just as charming and distinguished by the calmer environment. People seemed to have been there for most of the day, sunbathing and going for occasional dips in the salty sea. In the evening we headed to town to join the nightlife and grab a few cocktails in celebration of the week well spent.
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We left Amalfi Coast on the fifth day with a promise to be back under the hot Italian sun. With a bottle of limoncello in our luggage and a quick stop for espressos, we were en route to the Naples airport. In my memories and in my heart, the coast will always hold a special place. A land of lemon desserts, late night talks over delicious wine, town-hopping via boat rides and calm days by the beach, the Amalfi Coast is the definition of living the Italian dream in all its technicolour.